Immersed in the captivating world of Watches and Wonders, we delved into a realm where time was not merely measured but celebrated. Amidst the array of exhibitors, distinct trends emerged, painting a vivid picture of the horological landscape.
1. The development of ever more complex mechanical watch movements and whimsical automaton mechanical moving dials
2. A reverence for brand heritage and reinvention of old principles- eg Chanel’s homage to Coco’s fashion roots, the IWC Portugeiser Eternal calendar.
3. Decorated dials for women especially at Hermes, VanCleef & Arpels, Cartier and Chanel. Colours dials generally abounded with greens and blues taking centre stage.
4. Interest in the natural world- jungle inspired imagery used in displays and on dial
70’s and 80’s lavish excess.
Bell&Ross
We visited Bell& Ross on the Thursday. The epitome of a paired back stylish tool watch, this brand consistently delivers on design. It knows its DNA. The stand looked stunning, their paired back watch design following though into the space that they showcased the new watches.
The newness we saw has built on the existing ranges of Urban and Instrument watches with the round Vintage range now completely discontinued.
In the ‘Instruments’ collection we saw:
the development of new dials on the Diver and BR03. (Some of which I can’t share as it is under a press embargo before it launches later this year)
The wider use of ceramic for black cases
the use of precious metals in the cases, either as a bezel or in it’s entirety.
It was a delight to see them introduce 2 ceramic bracelets a- one matte and shine and the other completely matte- the look was understated and sophisticated.
There was also a new motor racing watch in carbon fibre and titanium- super cool and ideal for the UK as it had it’s own identity and was unaffiliated to a F1 team.
Bremont
Bremont was incredibly exciting, there was lots of change. Change we felt was necessary. We are feeling very positive about it. (See my blog ‘time for change@Bremont’)
Lead by Davide Cerrato, the new chief executive (formerly of Tudor and Montblanc) we saw a new direction emerge, in product, message and branding.
At a very grass roots level, we’d had feedback from some of you, that, while you loved the idea of buying British, there were some things about the watches that stopped you purchasing. The new team have listened to this feedback and the result is invigorating.
You said:
We want a watch that easily fits under a shirt
We want a lower price point
We want more variety in case shape and size
And that is exactly what has been delivered! The DNA of the brand still remains but the new team have fine tuned the offer making a great new addition with the Terra Nova, and revamping the SuperMarine. They have even updated the logo and changed the brand colours.
Change is always hard, but, the feel of the watches is fabulous and they should all be deliverable without too much of a wait. The photos do not do it justice but here is a summary and some pictures to tease you until the stock arrives and you too can see how great it is in the hand.
The Terra Nova Collection - the focus of Bremont’s ‘Land’ Range.
The name recalls Captain Scott’s Antarctic expedition of 1910, it also marks new territory for the brand both in styling and price point.
The collection is a contemporary take on a field watch, inspired by military timepieces of the early 20th century. The design includes a cushion case, a new (very comfortable) bracelet design, large Arabic numerals treated with super-luminova and faceted pencil hands. It features a 2 part case- a major move away from Bremont’s signature Trip-Tick three-part case.
Prices start at £2500. All steel used in the collection is now 904L grade (the only other brand to use this grade is Rolex). It has a higher lustre than their existing steel and allows the case and bracelet to be re-polished to a high standard. It maintains its whiteness and gives a superb finish to the new case and bracelet.
The new Supermarine
The Supermarine 502 & 302 offer remains unchanged but they have a new family member at an opening price point of £2950.
The new supermarine offers the ultimate performance, this time with a 2 part case, extra bright super-luminova and helium release valve. The bezel is made with aluminium insert, the strap is adjustable to fit over your wetsuit. The bracelet is also new and supremely comfortable.
Available with a rubber strap they are very easy to switch in and out allowing maximum versatility. This collection is also made with the 904L steel.
CONTACT US FOR ORDERING DETAILS OR SHOP BREMONT OR BELL & ROSS ON OUR WEBSITE
Time for change @Bremont
Bloomberg call Bremont ‘a rare independent watchmaker trying to grow on its own, not as part of a group, via an array of reasonably priced, straightforward and attractive watches with useful functions.’
Established in 2002 with the aim of bringing back industrial-scale watch manufacturing to the UK, founders Nick and Giles English put it on the horological map by combining a laid-back approach with a determination to achieve what many believed was an overambitious goal. Now they have lead their brand into a new era, future proofing their legacy.
Last year new investors (specifically Bill Ackman of Hellcat Acquisitions) signed a deal with the English brothers and have since put seasoned veterans of the industry at the helm. Operationally, Davide Ceratto was employed as the new CEO. He brought in a whole new way of thinking and a management team with a wide range of experience both in watchmaking and luxury.
The operations team are backed up with seasoned business managers (Rupert Morley is the new Chair). Nick and Giles remain on the board to advise, but it is the new team that are taking the brand into the future. They will manage and maintain the DNA, making sure there is a lasting legacy, moving it on to be more commercial and profitable.
Messaging
This April Bremont exhibited at Watches & Wonders in Geneva for the first time. They used the opportunity to launch what is essentially Bremont 2.0: a new look for the brand.
‘Mr. Cerrato joined Bremont almost a year ago but waited until now to introduce a new logo, new branding and a new product line, based on three product categories: air, land and sea..…… he has reduced Bremont’s entry-level price in a bid to capture a market all but abandoned by many establishment players,’ says the FT. The new logo is being used for the new Supermarine models and the Terra Nova, with a rolling change happening over the coming months on in store branding.
The new logo is called “The Wayfinder”. More than just a propeller, it shows they are about more than aviation. They have also used a more modern font that is intended to create a feeling of movement that fits in with their new mantra ‘Higher, Further, Deeper, Faster’ — representing the themes of air, land and sea.
They plan to build on the English brothers foundation, adding new clients. “We’re on a real mission to rejuvenate the target market, which is buyers between the ages of 25 and 45,” he says. The heritage logo is to be retained for limited editions and heritage models such as the MB and the Alt1-C.
Product
Cerrato says “We run a program that is called ‘Simplify to Amplify,’ and it is exactly that: reducing the number of references, reducing the limited editions, focusing on the core, simplifying the operation,” he tells a journalist. “So that we can go from, let's say, 10,000 pieces a year to three to four times that in the next five years.”
Ranges specifically designed for women have been completely discontinued, because he says, “Gender boundaries have completely fallen in recent years, and designing a watch linked specifically to men or women doesn’t even seem appropriate now,” instead he has introduced smaller dial sizes which work really well in the new 2 part case construction.
His aim is to be ‘the champion of tool watches’ with a clearly defined product—inexpensive, attractive and functional watches—and make a lot more of them. “an entry door into the world of serious watchmaking, and at the same time also the tool watch that everyone can wear every day.”
The new range structure will consist of the Terra Nova in the Land category, the Supermarine in the Sea category and the Alt1, MB & MoD in the Air category.